Day 1 - Besisahar to near Bhulbhule     Spirits low but hopeful The bus from Kathmandu stopped in Besisahar early in the afternoon. We hiked through the hazey humidity for only a few hours before reaching our first night's lodge. We were all wondering if the smokey visibility and deforested farmlands would eventually give way to undisturbed natural scenery above us. Jonathan and Cat both lost their cameras on this first day.   Photo by Alistair Adams