The Kathmandu experience defies description. So much happens all at once, continuously, and in every direction. Like Amsterdam's integrated transit web, Kathmandu's tightly woven religions and lifestyles energize the marketplaces and temples.

Before starting the Annapurna trek, we spent two days strolling through Kathmandu's markets and temple complexes, blending with the throngs of people and inhaling the street smells.

The local automated teller machines accepted our American bank cards and gave us colorful rupees to pay for flights from Jomsom to Pokhara ($61 US) and our Annapurna Conservation Area permits (2000 Rupees each).

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